Via Egnatia Day One: Traveling from Thessaloniki to Philippi
(statue of Alexander the Great in Thessaloniki)
There is something profoundly meaningful about retracing ancient paths—especially when those roads once carried the footsteps of Paul the Apostle. Today, our Missionary Journeys of Paul tour set out along the historic Via Egnatia, traveling from Thessaloniki to Philippi—and what a day it was.
The Via Egnatia was
a road constructed by the Romans in the 2nd century BC. It crossed Illyricum, Macedonia, and Thracia, running through territory that is now part of
modern Albania, North Macedonia, Greece, and European Turkey as a continuation of the Via Appia. Our route today took us along a small portion of
this historic route in North Macedonia.
Every Day Offers a Fresh Start
After a good night’s rest, we gathered for a bountiful
Greek breakfast buffet, where members of our Atlanta and Chicago groups met one
another for the first time. Conversations flowed easily, friendships began to
form, and the shared anticipation of the journey ahead was unmistakable.
As Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis once said, “Happy is the
man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean
Sea.” Today, we did not sail the Aegean Sea, but we did journey the highway alongside
it, and we felt a little of that happiness beginning to take shape.
Joyful Anticipation
We departed the hotel at 8:30 a.m. to begin our exploration
of Thessaloniki. Our co-host, Bill Shiell, who was dressed in his best (one day
late!) St. Patrick’s Day attire, welcomed the group by presenting each traveler
with a necklace of green beads in honor of the patron saint. With enthusiasm
and good cheer, he offered a prayer for the day and then led us in singing “This
Is the Day.” It was a great beginning, setting the tone for all that would
follow.
Exploring Thessaloniki
Our extraordinary guide, Emily, brought the city to life as
we traveled along the seaside, sharing rich history and cultural insight about
her homeland. Our first stop was a photo opportunity at the statue of Alexander
the Great, a towering reminder of Greece’s enduring legacy.
From there, we visited the excavation site of the Roman
Forum of Thessaloniki. Standing among the ruins, we reflected on Paul’s time in
the city and the formation of one of the earliest Christian communities. I
offered a brief overview, which highlighted four enduring themes from his
letters to these new Jesus followers:
- Faith
under pressure: Be determined to follow Jesus, even in a pluralistic and sometimes
hostile culture.
- Hope
rooted in Christ: Live with confidence in God’s future, even when current
circumstances are tough and challenging.
- Love
expressed through community: Encourage one another and stick with your
spiritual community despite its frailties and imperfections.
- Steadfast
discipleship: Commit to be a lifetime student, continually learning new
insights, discarding faulty assumptions, and pursuing “the way, the truth,
and the life.”
These themes continue to speak into our lives today.
Just across the street, we entered the historic Church of
Saint Demetrios, a sacred space dating back to the 4th century A.D., rich with
tradition and devotion.
We then traveled to the Upper City to view the impressive Walls
of Thessaloniki, which once protected the ancient city and still stand as a
testament to its resilience.
On the Road: Faith in Motion
As we journeyed over the mountains along the route of the
Via Egnatia, Pastor Pete Stearns shared a devotional from Philippians 4:1–5.
Reflecting on the conflict between Euodia and Syntyche, he reminded us that
Paul’s words model how people of faith can serve as peacemakers in times of
division.
It was a timely word, one that resonates deeply as we learn
more effective ways to build up the body of Christ in a culture that is intensely
divisive and majors on tearing others down.
Walking Through Philippi
After a brief rest stop, we arrived in Philippi, where we
enjoyed lunch together before exploring a few of the historic sites. Walking
among the ruins, we encountered the Philippi Archaeological Site, including the
Ancient Theatre of Philippi, the Roman forum, the Octagon, and a room that is believed
to be the cell where Paul was imprisoned.
History felt close enough to touch.
By the Rivers of Lydia
From there, we traveled to the peaceful setting of Lydia's
Baptism Site. Gathered by the riverside, Bill Shiell shared the story of Lydia
of Thyatira—a story of openness, conversion, and life transformation, and a
testimony of the power of previously sown gospel seeds reaching full fruition.
Acts 16:14 reports, “The Lord opened her heart to listen eagerly…”
After the message, we were invited to dip our hands into
the water, symbolically connecting with the first recorded baptism of a Gentile
believer in Macedonia. It was a simple yet powerful act, one that made the
story come alive in a deeply personal way.
Just across the walking path, we visited the chapel known
as The Baptistery of St. Lydia. There, our voices joined together in
singing “God Is So Good.” Those moments became sacred, as the music
lingered in the air, followed by a quiet reverence that words could hardly
capture.
The Journey Home
Before leaving the region, we passed by the port city of Kavala,
ancient Neapolis, where Paul first set foot on European soil.
The two-hour journey back to Thessaloniki gave us time to
reflect on a full and meaningful day.
As Henry Miller once wrote, “It takes a lifetime to
discover Greece, but it only takes an instant to fall in love with her.”
Closing the Day
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed another delicious four-course
dinner, followed by a brief preview of tomorrow’s journey to Berea and Meteora.
Then, with grateful hearts and tired feet, we retired for
some much-needed rest.
It had been a day of learning, laughter, worship, and
wonder, a day spent walking ancient roads and rediscovering timeless truths.
And tomorrow, the journey continues.
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